#ScentTherapy: Why brands are exploring raw and real in perfumery

This article on pheromone fragrance is part of our Vogue Business membership package. To enjoy unlimited access to our weekly Beauty Edit newsletter, which contains Member-only reporting and analysis, the Beauty Trend Tracker and Leadership Advice, sign up for Vogue Business membership here. Scents that pack an emotional punch are on the rise. The Nue Co has launched functional fragrances to calm and focus the mind; Vyrao has invested in neuroscience research to unlock the impact of scents on the brain; Aesop has integrated a sensorial in-store experience; Edeniste has developed active wellness fragrances; and Charlotte Tilbury has expanded its beauty portfolio with six emotionally amplifying scents. Now, Noyz, an emerging fragrance brand with the aim to disrupt, has launched a collection based on raw and real feelings. How raw? Well, there’s a scent called Sh**ty Day. Pheromone fragrance is booming, but rather than solely reflecting positive feelings, the latest iteration explores emotion in its entirety. These are fragrances that can attract and repel. “Fragrances have always existed for their positive impacts on our emotional and physical wellbeing,” says Michal Benmayor, VP head of perfumery innovation and sustainability at DSM-Firmenich. “What is changing today is the awareness and intentionality of consumers in using fragrances as a selfcare act and choosing them based on the expected emotional impact, not just as a status statement or a self-projecting act — 50 per cent of fragrance users are interested in fragrances that link to a physical or a wellness benefit.” Since the pandemic, wellness fragrances have enjoyed four years of growth, with consumers responding to scents that enhance, boost or alter their psyche. As studies into neuroscience, synaesthesia and aromatherapy advance, researchers and perfumers have mapped scent’s significant impact on the brain. Mintel data suggests that 78 per cent of UK consumers think fragrance can improve their mental well-being. According to research by Fragrance Science, 75 per cent of our daily emotions are influenced by scent, which can influence our stress levels, temperament, concentration and memory. Yet as brands dive deeper into the mood-boosting elements, an appetite has emerged for scents that align and embrace the entire spectrum of emotions. “Consumers are increasingly looking for fragrances as an antidote for their emotions due to a rising focus on emotional well-being and the desire for sensory experiences,” says Olivia Houghton, beauty, health and wellness analyst at strategic foresight consultancy The Future Laboratory. Insights show that 61 per cent of consumers want brands to help them feel intense emotions, she says. “This indicates a significant demand for products that cater to emotional needs. Additionally, 22 per cent of global consumers prefer scents that help them relax and reduce distress and anxiety.” Today’s emotional fragrances aim to offer more than a quick mood lift. “Scents should be designed for deeper, therapeutic interaction, providing sustained emotional balance and aligning with our personal health and wellness journeys. It’s moving from a simple ‘feel good’ approach to a holistic ‘live well’ strategy, setting the stage for how we view — and use — scent,” says Tenyse Williams, CEO of Verified Consulting. Jennifer Pressimone, a clinical aromatherapy expert, agrees. “The top three emotions I see people seeking support through scents are self-confidence, reduced fear (more courage) and self-worth. Everyone wants to feel comfortable, confident and worthy of themselves. Scent reinforces those feelings,” she says. Noyz aims to disrupt It’s why newcomer Noyz — currently available in London’s Harrods and soon to be available at Ulta Beauty in the US — is a front runner in the new attitude for wellness fragrances. “Noyz was created from a position that real and raw storytelling was missing in the fragrance industry with most of that storytelling rooted in a hyper-filtered fantasy,” says Shaun Neff, Noyz founder and serial entrepreneur (he founded Neff Headwear).“In a world where life is not perfect and we all have struggles, the timing of a brand rooted in this sort of realism, in my opinion, couldn’t have come at a better moment”. The brand has four fragrances (Love Club, Unmute, Lost + Found and Sh**ty Day) blended by renowned nose Jérôme Epinette, who explains: “Fragrance has recently rebranded to focus more overtly on the emotional and mood-boosting benefits of scent. Noyz understands that not everyone feels the same way and has created a collection that addresses our diverse emotional needs.” As for the collection itself, an emotional release for its customers is the goal. “Sh**ty Day is my reset fragrance,” says Epinette. “I designed this fragrance to help you pause and temporarily let go of all the shit that is consuming you. Notes of eucalyptus leaves, salty ocean air and lavender create an uplifting and revitalising spirit, while tonka bean and sea-soaked woods wrap you in comfort. This fragrance is just what you need to embrace the idea that tomorrow is a new day.” The brand has collaborated with photographer Damon Baker on the Harrods-exclusive scent Monochrome, which has a very personal and emotional dimension. Baker says the notes of Indonesian patchouli, pink lotus, liquid musk and coffee all tie together so nicely. “They relate to my journey of self-hate, delusion, loss, anxiety and chasing non-existent energy and false confidence. These are all dark matters but within all of that darkness is a journey of self-love, acceptance, grounding, growth and chasing an existing energy and confidence that I do embody and can start to embrace. With no shame.” This approach to scent curation inspired by an intensely emotional journey could be the future of fragrance, DSM-Firmenich’s Benmayor says. “In today’s uncertain times, consumers are more focused on their health than ever. Our research shows there is unprecedented consumer appreciation for scent and its rich emotional benefits. I believe scent has a bigger role to play than ever in driving well-being and innovation for tomorrow.” As for consumers, Mia Collins, Harrods beauty director, notes a “fantastically positive” response in store. “Customers are keen for more knowledge about the scents and ingredients that elicit certain responses from our brain to better understand how they can harness these effects and carry them forward in their own lives,” she says. Gen Z and millennials are enthusiastic about therapeutic fragrances as part of a wider well-being awakening, highlighted by Mintel in its 2024 Global Wellness Market report. It’s being played out at a community level on TikTok, where #ScentTherapy is currently amassing over 57 million views. Consumers are actively engaged in fragrance’s deep therapeutic effects. Take Korean fragrance brand Born to Stand Out, which has gone from strength to strength since launching in 2020. The fragrance has received over 1.1 million searches on TikTok and notched up $11 million in sales in 2023 and a reported $11 million in Q1 2024 alone. The brand rethinks Korea’s rich traditions, its perfume bottle is a modern reinterpretation of royal porcelain from the country’s Joseon dynasty. Scents like Dirty Rainbow aim to overcome emotions associated with individuality and inequality. Meanwhile, Anatomē is launching its well-being parfums collection in June, curated by founder Brendan Murdock and aromachologist Anastasia Brozler. The collection intends to help consumers perform, find focus or be still. “They were developed to be someone’s invisible armour for their every day; a part of their routine that they know will connect them with their well-being,” explains Murdock. Vyrao founder Yasmin Sewell acknowledged the new emotional direction early on. In November 2023, the brand launched its fragrance Sunrae to act as an antidote for sadness and self-doubt. It blends turmeric, bergamot, ginger, lemon, vetiver and sandalwood, and has been recognised by the International Flavor & Fragrances Inc (IFF) proprietary science of wellness programme to amplify self-confidence by 67 per cent and joy by 25 per cent. “We are more of a well-being brand than a traditional fragrance brand, and perhaps less of a traditional wellness brand as our take is looking at our emotional, spiritual and energetic well-being,” says Sewell. Ultimately, consumers want to relate their scents to an emotion. “If brands can authentically create a level of emotional engagement from their customers, it will drive future brand loyalty and repeat purchases,” says Sara Allbright, director of Retail 100 Consulting. “That is critical to building a brand in this sector.” Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.

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