The future of sustainable fashion

Sustainability will be a priority for fashion over the next decade as the climate crisis remains top of mind for consumers and brands, according to the inaugural Vogue Business and Google Summit. A holistic approach to sustainability, covering the social side — preventing labour abuses and supporting workers’ rights — alongside the environmental challenges, and solutions, were top of mind for executives who spoke during the event. Scaling up sustainability Sixty per cent of business leaders in the fashion industry name implementing sustainability as their key strategic challenge, despite the economic challenges created by Covid-19. In this session, Vogue Business data editor George Arnett talked to Eileen Fisher and Bethany Williams, two designers that put sustainability at the core of their fashion businesses. The discussion hinged on how to operate a sustainable fashion business at scale and the biggest challenges that may stand in the way. While implementing and scaling your sustainable product lines is the first step, progress needs to be monitored and best practice ensured. The panel discussion touched upon the importance of outside certification schemes like B Corp status and Science Based Targets. The two designers also shared their thoughts on the responsibility that fashion brands have in educating consumers about sustainability, with Williams emphasising how the “power of making” can help in this task. This session was sponsored by HSBC. What legislation can do to limit supply chain abuses and forced labour The Covid-19 pandemic has brought to the forefront fashion supply chain issues including human and labour rights abuses. From reports of forced labour in China and unfair dismissals in Myanmar to accusations of worker exploitation in garment factories in the UK, the issues have proven to be many and widespread across the globe. The fashion value chain, structured in a way that allows brands to avoid responsibility for the workers in their own supply chain, is particularly vulnerable, says Thulsi Narayanasamy, senior labour researcher at the Business Human Rights Resource Centre. As these problems persist, it’s clear that voluntary efforts on the part of private and public companies are not enough and that government and institutions need to step in with mandatory legislation. Both the EU and the US have gone in this direction, but with different approaches, explains James Marlow, ESG lawyer at Linklaters, who thinks the EU’s wide-ranging approach is likely to have more of an impact. Still, companies and brands have their own role to play in redistributing value along the supply chain, says Stefania Saviolo, lecturer of the Department of Management and Technology at Bocconi University, especially as they can expect to be more scrutinised post-pandemic. The realities of executing a circular economy Circularity is upheld as a sustainable fashion panacea. If all clothing could be resold, upcycled or recycled, waste would be a non-issue. But the coordination required to reach full circularity makes it feel far from reality. Circularity needs participation across farms, manufacturers and brands. Some companies are partnering with specialist organisations like The Renewal Workshop to forge ahead on circularity; Coyuchi sustainability and production manager Margot Lyons shared how the brand’s approach to circularity follows similar steps as switching to organic materials, and says the goal is that other brands will mimic their strategy. Other brands, like Tommy Hilfiger, are slowly working towards circular practices. As Esther Verburg, EVP of sustainable business and innovation, explains, new initiatives taken on by the legacy fashion brand are designed to eliminate product waste. Speakers Maria McClay, head of luxury at Google, and For Days founder Kristy Caylor round out the discussion, shedding light on how partnerships from tech companies can help brands chart their circularity strategies and how customer behaviour is catching up. Is positive consumption even possible? Positive consumption is a vague term that could involve anything from shopping secondhand and supporting independents to rental, resale and repairs. Fundamentally, these are all steps consumers can take to mitigate the social and environmental damage caused by brands and hyperconsumption. But is it misleading to suggest that we can shop our way to sustainability? In this session, Vogue Business editorial associate Bella Webb discusses the illusion of positive consumption with writer Aja Barber, influencer Camille Charrière and Patagonia company philosopher Vincent Stanley. Both Barber and writer Charrière say consumers should buy less and brands should produce less in tandem, while also advocating for consumers and influencers to hold brands accountable. Stanley shared some of the changes Patagonia has made to facilitate positive consumption, from boycotting Black Friday to extending its repair services. He emphasised the importance of shifting the relationship between brand and consumer, so the point of purchase is just the beginning, encouraging longevity and care in the use phase. To become a Vogue Business Member and receive the Sustainability Edit newsletter, click here. Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com. More on this topic: What the pandemic revealed about fashion’s supply chain Fashion’s supply chain: More scrutiny to come Tommy Hilfiger commits to going “circular”. Will it work?

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Scaling up sustainability

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